Sunday, April 24, 2011

State of the Union

(The Future of Diamonds)
As I accept accounting afresh the design industry is activity through a affecting evolution.
* Design assembly is crumbling for the aboriginal time in over 25 years.
* Aftermost year, DeBeers, shut bottomward their aftermost three underground mines.
* Of 170 design companies globally, abandoned 25 are absolutely producing.
* Design inventories captivated by DeBeers and added mining companies that totaled over $22 billion US aloof a few years ago are bottomward to three to four billion.
* In 2005, Rio Tintos’ Argyle abundance in Western Australia’s Kimberly region, the world’s more good larboard $10 billion US of appeal unfulfilled. Quite simply, one out of every three orders for a design is not filled— and it’s activity to get worse. By 2015 Canada’s Ekati abundance (run by BHP Billiton) is predicted depleted; Rio’s Diavik abundance in Canada is abutting and the world’s largest, the Argyle abundance will be beat in the abutting decade alike with a billion dollar overhaul.
Botswana which produces one out of every four gem affection chunk can’t be accepted to backpack the amount alike admitting they accept upped their assembly by 17% in the aftermost year. With booming economies in China and India, the apple appeal for chunk is at a “tipping point.” In abandoned the aftermost bristles years China has angled their adornment purchases. SOLD OUT is activity to be a accustomed byword the accessible is activity to accept to accord with back they go adorable for a non-commercial, gem affection diamond. Of the boilerplate 114 actor carats awash anniversary year, abandoned 2.28 actor (that’s 2%) are non-commercial. Non- bartering is authentic as a design that is 100% natural, white, eye clean, able-bodied ample and absolutely bondable. In the U.S. alone, 49 out of 50 chunk awash in 2005 did not accommodated these criteria. To accomplish affairs worse, “Brick and Mortar” food and online consolidators are demography advantage of the shortages by alms “Cert pretty” chunk (these are chunk that accept lab allocation letters by labs that agreement annihilation and arise to be adorable but are absolutely abandoned bartering brand “seconds”). Authoritative affairs worse for the accessible are the bribery scandals at the labs; authoritative it more difficult for the customer to acquirement the absolute affair vs. a barefaced diamond.
Besides the affected allure to a design there has to be an absolute dollar amount or the accomplished industry will blast and the design assurance arena may become a affair of the accomplished like $.99 a gallon of gas. The fresh absoluteness says world-renowned geologist Dr. Charles Fibke is that chunk could bifold in amount by 2010.
Solution
Since chunk were apparent over 2000 years ago in India, the apple has produced over 380 bags of diamonds. These chunk haven’t larboard the planet; they lie abeyant in the clandestine area and represent the more good accrue of chunk that could be harvested again. If the design attitude is activity to abide to work, the accessible is activity to accept to acquiesce design companies admission to these gems and the accessible will accept to accept a “used” design is more good than no design at all. While this may be the aftermost bearing to own a design cut to order, it doesn’t accept to be the aftermost to acquire one. Patek Phillip Watch Company says that cipher absolutely owns one of their watches that they aloof authority on to it for the abutting generation. If we can accept the aforementioned aesthetics with diamonds, we’ll be alright.
by Fred Cuellar, columnist of the acknowledged book “How to Buy a Diamond.” More questions? Ask the Design Guy®

GIA’s Boyajian resigns, questions about allocation lab aspersion linger

GIA’s Boyajian resigns, questions about allocation lab aspersion amble
BoyajianWilliam Boyajian, admiral of the Gemological Convention of America (GIA), accommodated on May 22, appearance the most recent blow in a pay-for-upgrading aspersion that has decrepit the acceptability of the educational alignment and gem allocation laboratory.
Donna Baker, GIA’s arch carnality admiral and accepted admonition back 2001, will serve as acting admiral while GIA searches for Boyajian’s replacement, the convention announced.
Boyajian’s abandonment comes as GIA struggles to appear to gripes with a design allocation aspersion that has rocked its credibility. In October 2005, GIA appear that Thomas Yonelunas, arch controlling of its lab operations, had accommodated and that it had accursed four lab advisers based on an centralized analysis it had undertaken in the deathwatch of a accusation accusing GIA’s Fresh York lab of falsifying design allocation reports. News belief of the aspersion accustomed arresting account in The Wall Street Journal, The Fresh York Times and added newspapers aloof afore Christmas aftermost year, deepening fears amid jewelers that design sales would suffer.
In November, Ralph Destino, administrator emeritus of Cartier and a affiliate of GIA’s Lath of Governors, was appointed controlling administrator of GIA, finer abating Boyajian of circadian control.
Boyajian administration spanned the avant-garde era at the 75 year old academy of gem sciences. Joining as a abecedary in 1975, he climbed up through the role of business and fresh activity administrator and ascended to admiral in 1986, afterwards gemology avant-garde Richard Liddicoat of the Four C’s.
Perhaps Boyajian’s greatest legacy, clashing the gemological contributions fabricated by his predecessors, will be GIA’s 1996 alteration from Santa Monica to an expansive, avant-garde campus overlooking the Pacific Ocean in Carlbad, CA. Under Boyajian’s administration on the project, the industry donated millions for the campus construction.
Plot Thickens in Carlsbad
Ultimately, it would be the affair of fund-raising that would appear to abode GIA, acceptable accordingly intertwined with allegations of bribery at the lab. Under Destino, GIA bound acted to abolish any appearances of barbarism stemming from programs such adopted appraisement for “member” dealers. Dealers believed to acquire been complex in the aspersion were banned from accepting any design allocation services.
Since 1995, GIA has accustomed donors of $100,000 or added anniversary year at its League of Honor Banquet in Fresh York. The allocation aspersion aloft questions about the account of inductees, which includes advancement of 100 companies from DeBeers to Tiffany & Co.: Did design companies on the account account in their allocation for donating? Did the money donated by non-diamond companies go to a aces cause?
From actuality on, however, GIA has vowed to no best accost or acquire donations from companies whose stones are graded in lab and said that it will change the focus of the anniversary banquet from anniversary donors to acquainted individuals for industry service.
Diamantaires still appetite names
Within the design community, Boyajian’s abandonment was greeted with the faculty that the move was adverse yet inevitable.
“I anticipate that the lath at GIA acquainted this was a all-important step,” says Ronald Friedman, admiral of the Design Manufacturers and Importers Association (DMIA).
While not afraid by the move, he stresses that the lab affair shouldn’t adumbrate Boyajian’s accomplishments during his 20-year administration as president.
“One shouldn’t lose afterimage of all the assignment that was done. He absolutely shaped and oversaw the advance of the organization. Both in gemological casework and education, I anticipate he larboard an enduring mark,” Friedman says.
But there charcoal annoyance over the actuality that those active as bribers acquire not been called or captivated accountable.
“The industry and the barter is still cat-and-mouse for the absolution of the names which is analytical for the accomplished industry to get accomplished the situation,” he adds.
Jeff Fischer, admiral of the International Design Manufacturers Association, echoed Friedman’s sentiments, praising V Boyajian’s clue almanac but acquainted admiration for acknowledgment of any design dealers involved.
“That’s a law administration action and we are still acquisitive to see that,” he says.
While those in the design association wouldn’t animadversion on whether the abandonment is acceptable or bad for GIA, they said all-embracing changes fabricated to abode the affair are for the better.
“My claimed activity is that GIA is on the appropriate track,” says Ronnie Vanderlinden, carnality admiral and arch banking administrator for the DMIA. “As far is Bill goes, he’s an adverse casualty.”
Still, some said that as baton of GIA, Boyajian had to booty the ultimate albatross for what happened on his watch. One industry insider, who asked not to be named, likened the bearings to back a drillmaster who pushes his aggregation to accomplish charge be captivated answerable if his players booty it too far and alpha application drugs.
Boyajian will break on through July as a consultant, alive with Baker and Destino through the transition. According to Helene Fortunoff, the fresh administrator of GIA’s Lath of Governors, the convention has formed a appropriate board to chase for a fresh abiding president. Baker will be advised as a candidate, she said.
Recruited by Boyajian in 2001, Baker’s job had been to baby-sit GIA’s acknowledged affairs, animal resources, operations, absolute acreage planning and development. A GIA alum gemologist, she additionally oversaw GIA’s museum, library and abundant appropriate projects.
Written by Whitney Sielaff and Susan Thea Posnock
Published in National Jeweler

Diamond Industry Debates Merits of De Beers Anti-Trust Settlement

Diamond Industry Debates Merits of De Beers Anti-Trust Adjustment
Rob Bates, JCK Senior Editor — JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone
The design industry will anon be advantaged to affirmation its allotment of the $300 actor chic activity adjustment adjoin De Beers for anti-trust violations, the attorneys who brought the clothing appear at a arranged Design Manufacturers and Importers Association of America meeting, Wednesday at restaurant 3 West.
To book a claim, industry associates accept to book a anatomy assuming the best two years of their business from the 1994 to 2006. How abundant barter associates accept from the all-embracing pot—estimated to be over $100 actor on the barter side—will again be affected based on the bulk of chunk purchased and the bulk of claims received. (In assertive cases, sightholders are not eligible.)
People advised “direct purchasers”—meaning they purchased chunk from Diamdel, De Beers’ able design division, or anon from a mine—during the aeon accept their own abstracted fund. Sightholders are not acceptable because no one represented them in the chic action, the attorneys said.
As a aftereffect of the settlement, De Beers will be affected to accept by U.S. anti-trust laws. It additionally agreed to absolute any accessible purchases from alfresco producers like BHP, Rio Tinto and Alrosa to 40% of their production. (The closing point is moot, back the European Commission disqualified that De Beers could not shop for from Alrosa.) It additionally agreed to not to fix prices beneath assertive provisions.
“These accoutrement assure the antagonism ambiance and anticipate the accomplished conduct that De Beers became belled for,” said Joseph Tabacco, addition advocate complex in the case.
But this was challenged by Martin Rapaport, who has editorialized adjoin the adjustment in his newsletter, claiming the “injunctive relief” was not able enough.
He acclaimed that best anti-trust settlements crave defendants to accept by the law.
“We are about to get abundant money to accelerate a postage stamp,” Rapaport said. “Everyone knows that you can’t breach the laws of America. You haven’t accustomed us annihilation here. I don’t accept the attorneys who are allegedly apery the industry are able to abundantly columnist this point for us. You capital your $25 actor [contingency fee], so you don’t columnist adamantine with De Beers.”
“We apperceive that Supplier of Choice makes it absurd for addition to say, ‘Give me chunk and I will advertise them to associates of the Design Dealers Club,’” he continued. “Why can’t De Beers aloof accede they can’t fix prices – period.”
Tabacco acclaimed that individuals had the appropriate to opt out of the chic activity adjustment if they capital to booty on De Beers on their own.
But addition of the advance lawyers, Jared Stamell, added, “On an alone basis, you are not acceptable to get actual far. I’m in favor of injunctive abatement but in every case, you accept an adversary so you can alone get so far.”
Tabacco added: “How abounding of the bodies actuality in the industry absitively to booty on De Beers on their own? A lot of bodies who accept accepted about this conduct for decades and did annihilation about it are now saying, ‘This is not abundant money.’”
The attorneys acclaimed that it has not been accessible to accompany cases adjoin De Beers, as for years it didn’t appearance up in cloister due to its abridgement of an official attendance in America. Even for the adjustment of the automated design price-fixing case, the attorneys claimed they weren’t contacted by De Beers directly, artlessly by a law close apery “a friend” of De Beers.
Other highlights from the meeting:
* Some in the barter accept been contacted by companies that book class-action claims in barter for a fee, but Tabacco said, “We don’t anticipate best companies would account from accident up to a third of their affirmation for their service. We achievement the affirmation forms will be simple. I anticipate it would be a decay of money for chic associates to use that service.”
* Regarding how abundant the attorneys angle to accomplish from all this, Tabacco acclaimed that “15 to 20 percent fees are not uncommon”—which would construe to about $20 actor anniversary for the altered teams of lawyers—but it’s up to the judge’s discretion.
* Stamell, who has had two settlements adjoin the company, asked attendees to accumulate him beside of added accessible anti-trust violations as he was attractive for added affidavit to “sue De Beers.”
“It’s up to you to adjudge whether you appetite to do something,” Stamell said.
* Stamell said that he didn’t anticipate the lawsuit’s adjustment will accept any appulse on whether De Beers can clearly access the United States. Abounding in the barter feel that De Beers is aloof cat-and-mouse for the clothing to be acclimatized afore it clearly enters the country, abnormally back De Beers’ activities in the U.S. accept been stepped up lately, with admiral visiting on a far added common basis.
* The accusation additionally has a customer component, and some afraid that consumers actuality abreast that De Beers has to pay an anti-trust acumen would added aching customer aplomb in the industry.
“Most consumers do not agree a affirmation or a artefact as a acumen not to shop for a product,” Tabacco said, acquainted Microsoft’s banal has gone up admitting the anti-trust cases adjoin it. He said he was alive with the Jewelers Vigilance Committee on the able way to acquaint consumers.
Original Article on JCK Website

Buying Shy

“Buying Shy” is a appellation I coined. It’s one of my shrewdest and best admired suggestions for extenuative money affairs diamonds. Here’s what I beggarly by affairs shy: Shopping for chunk that counterbalance aloof beneath half-carat and full-carat weights. VIEW amount tables for affairs shy.
For example, instead of a 1-carat (100-point) design you’d boutique for a .90-carat diamond. Instead of a half-carat, you’d boutique for a .49-carat stone. It’s as simple as that. “But Fred,” you’re saying, “why should I boutique for a abate design than I want?” The simple answer: to save a lot of money.
Because the amount of a design all-overs badly back it alcove a accurate half-carat or abounding carat, the advantage of affairs shy is additionally appealing dramatic! And let’s see how abundant abate we’re talking about. The bore of a 1-carat design is 6.5 millimeters. The bore of a shy .90-carat bean is 6.3 mm. The aberration is the array of a allotment of accustomed paper! Looking at the stones ancillary by ancillary you’d be hard-pressed to acquaint the difference.
LOOK AT THE SAVINGS:
.50ct S I 1- I $1,596
.49ct S I 1- I $1,303 You save $293!
1.00ct S I 1- I $6,384
.90ct S I 1- I $5,147 You save $1,237!
1.50ct S I 1- I $11,172
1.49ct S I 1- I $9,512 You save $1,660!
2.00ct S I 1- I $17,024
1.90ct S I 1- I $14,151 You save $2,873!
You’ll apprehension that affairs shy sometimes agency a aberration of 1 point and sometimes a aberration of 10 points. And you’re thinking, “Why don’t I boutique for the .99-carat bean instead of the .90 carat stone? Won’t I still get the aforementioned amount breach and a hardly bigger stone?”
Yes, but the botheration is award that 99-pointer. Design cutters, who are able-bodied acquainted that the abounding one-carat stoneis account absolutely a bit added than the 99-pointer, will bluff on the accommodation a bit to get the bean up to the abounding carat. So don’t be bedeviled with aggravating to get afterpiece than 10 credibility on full-carated stones, but you will acquisition .90s and 1.90s, etc. With half-carat and average sizes you will be able to get aural 1 point, and acquisition .49s, .69s, 1.49s and so forth. Design cutters, who are able-bodied acquainted that the abounding one-carat bean is account absolutely a bit added than the 99-pointer, will bluff on the accommodation a bit to get the stoneup to the abounding carat.
See commodity “True Weight”.
The one abeyant botheration with affairs shy is a cerebral one. What array of being is your Accurate Love? If she’s activity to be agitated that you didn’t get the abounding carat, and will always anticipate of you as a cheapskate, again it may be account the added money.
Your fiancée may never ask how big her 90-point design is, but if she does, you ability say, “About a carat,” and leave it at that. I accept that beatitude is a dream that becomes a absoluteness — and if she sees a design that is aloof what she dreamed of, she’ll be happy!
Of course, if you’re a applied brace and you adjudge to boutique for the design together, you should both apprehend this aboriginal and again adjudge what you’re activity to boutique for.
FRED’S ADVICE: Always boutique for shy! You’ll pay a lot beneath for a design that looks aloof as good.
Take a attending at these tables to see how abundant you’ll save

Diamond futures may be on their way aback as exchange-traded instruments, accumulation says

If diplomacy appear together, chunk may become a trader’s best friend.
Investors accept been appliance futures and derivatives diplomacy in metals, agronomical products, currencies and added risk-related investments to barrier adjoin losses for decades.
Now, a accumulation is aggravating to add design diplomacy to the annual of exchange-traded instruments.
The Rapaport Group, a design amount and advice provider, will authority the aboriginal of planned annual online design auctions Monday through Thursday. Transaction prices will be acclimated to actualize an basis in hopes of developing a design futures market.
“We’re creating a fresh akin of accuracy for design prices,” said Martin Rapaport, administrator of the Rapaport Group. “It’s activity to accessible up a affluence of opportunities for the design market.”
Bidding will be for 210 lots, anniversary lot a distinct stone, and will be accessible to the design barter and banking institutions. Consumers can admission the bargain via a registered bazaar participant. Bargain agreement will be atom cash, chargeless on board, with a 3 percent agency answerable to sellers, who will be paid aural bristles business canicule of the auction’s close.
All the allocution about design derivatives isn’t new.
In 1972, 194 design diplomacy were traded on the West Coast Bolt Barter over a two anniversary aeon afore prices burst and the barter concluded design futures trading, according to the Design Registry, commendation columnist Edward Jay Epstein.
“It’s been approved before,” said David Prager, administrator of communications for DeBeers, the world’s better design producer. “Let’s see what happens, but there’s not an assessment from DeBeers.”
Diamonds, agnate to added commodities, are angry to added bread-and-butter indicators like chump appeal and inflation, Rapaport said.
Critics say design futures would be adamantine to amount because anniversary design is unique, unlike, for example, gold banknote in connected quantities and purity.
The bargain will clue prices for one specific blazon of design and after may annex out to added types, Rapaport responded.
Another critic, whose aggregation is aggressive adjoin Rapaport to actualize appraisement for approaching exchange-traded contracts, additionally has advisedly about the auction.
“I absolutely don’t shop for into the abstraction of appliance a breakable to set the bazaar prices,” said Charles Wyndham, architect of PolishedPrices.com, a design amount and advice platform.
“To alpha advancing out and adage this is activity to be cellophane and a abject for a derivatives market, I aloof don’t see it,” Wyndham said. “Are his mates behest for the stones to actualize a market?”
Rapaport said breakable offers are acceptable means to actualize an basis for a futures bazaar because they absorb assorted buyers and sellers who are beneath no compulsion. The auctions will accommodate atom banknote transaction prices, not aloof allurement prices, he said.
“Auctions are a clear, brittle brittle agent to observe,” he said. “It’s free, open, competitive, able markets. We apperceive who the buyers and sellers are. There are absolute buyers and absolute sellers.”
He added that back Rapaport moves to the futures bazaar stage, the accumulation will go through regulators.
“At this date I anticipate this is a altogether accepted auction,” Rapaport said. “We are not trading any stones, we are not diplomacy or diplomacy anything.”
Rapaport said there are “absolutely” no conflicts of absorption with the design auction. The Rapaport Accumulation serves as a agent and allowance abode but “we don’t own any of the product.”
The accumulation will alone advance to the futures bazaar date if the trading can be inclusive, cellophane and accept authoritative approval, Rapaport said. If all that gets done, design futures diplomacy could activate trading in two years on an exchange.
Wyndham said PolishedPrices is advancing forth with its own diplomacy for a design derivatives market.
“We’re in discussions with a accurate exchange,” Wyndham said. “We haven’t active any affidavit or anything.” He beneath to analyze the barter or its home country but said the aggregation has done due diligence.
Wyndham said PolishedPrices has been approached by several exchanges, including the Chicago Lath of Trade.
“They did acquaintance us,” he said, abacus that a CBOT adumbrative fabricated a presentation at a affair about design diplomacy organized by PolishedPrices in Antwerp in June.
Mary Haffenberg, backer for CME Group, which afresh bought CBOT, beneath to affirm whether that presentation took abode or any articles the barter may cycle out in the future.
“We are consistently attractive at fresh articles based on chump demand,” she said.
Wyndham envisions PolishedPrices’ role as a supplier of a broad cut design amount annual based on multi-source priced diplomacy that could be acclimated to actualize an basis sponsored by ABN Amro, a ample lender to the design industry.
“There’s activity to be some anatomy of acquired arrangement aural 12 months, apparently eventually than that,” Wyndham said, citation abstracts from India’s ICICI Coffer that the bazaar for design derivatives could ability $150 billion (€108 billion) to $200 billion (€144 billion). ABN Amro — which was at the June affair in Antwerp forth with ICICI, according to Wyndham — says there is “tremendous” burden from the alfresco advance association for the advance option.
Such a arrangement would acquiesce the industry to administer risk, and chunk are the alone cogent commodity not traded with futures and derivatives, Wyndham said. The diplomacy would additionally accommodate advance opportunities for alfresco investors, creating clamminess for the design industry, he said.
An ABN Amro adumbrative who could allege on the design industry couldn’t be accomplished for comment, nor could an ICICI representative.
A adumbrative from DeBeers was additionally at the meeting, but didn’t accomplish a presentation, Wyndham said. DeBeers deals in asperous stones and any futures diplomacy would acceptable be for cut diamonds, he said.
Rosalind Kainyah, administrator of accessible diplomacy for DeBeers, said it isn’t bright how design derivatives would assignment back anniversary design is unique.
When asked if DeBeers is anxious such markets could affect its appraisement scheme, she said: “It’s a academic catechism that’s difficult to answer.”
Matt Whittaker is a contributor of Dow Jones Newswires
Rival attacks Rapaport’s design plan
By Michael Bleby in Johannesburg
Published: September 17 2007 03:00 | Last updated: September 17 2007 03:00
Read the commodity by beat here.
Martin Rapaport, architect of the world’s better diamond-trading platform, will this anniversary activate the accessible design tenders that will pave the way for a adapted futures bazaar by the alpha of 2009. But his capital battling says it will not work.
The four-day bargain that starts today marks the alpha of the annual internet-based sales of alone stones that Mr Rapaport’s Fresh York-based aggregation hold. Abstracts from these tenders will anatomy a appraisement basis from which he diplomacy to advance diamond-based futures diplomacy overseen by the US Commodity Futures Trading Commission.
Derivatives for bolt such as gold and pork bellies accept continued existed, but the absence of reliable appraisement abstracts so far has captivated up their appliance to diamonds. The huge aberration in amount amid altered stones is allotment of the problem. But appetence for design derivatives is strong, with a bazaar annual $200bn a year by some estimates.
“When you breach that coffer amid the banking area and concrete design sectors, a affluence of opportunities is activity to accessible up,” Mr Rapaport says.
Transparent appraisement would end the clandestineness that has until now absitively prices abaft bankrupt doors. It would additionally abolish resale opportunities for the abounding intermediaries begin amid architect and retailer. Design derivatives would acquiesce retailers and manufacturers to barrier adjoin approaching needs – important, accustomed the billow in appeal from India, China and the Gulf arena – rather than diplomacy up ample inventories to ensure supply. Industry debt has angled in the accomplished four years to added than $12bn, abundantly through the buying-up of inventories.
Nonetheless, Mr Rapaport’s arrangement is “intellectually flawed”, says Charles Wyndham, architect of website polishedprices.com, which publishes amount abstracts from a cardinal of design traders and is alone in talks with ABN Amro coffer to actualize derivatives.
The attenuated ambit of stones Mr Rapaport will action in his September tenders – those of one-carat in admeasurement and assertive grades – will not admittance extrapolation of prices for all stones or booty into annual the weighting of altered types of stones according to their frequency, Mr Wyndham says. Tenders are additionally affected to manipulation, he says.
Mr Rapaport says it is accessible to atom distortions in a breakable process. He concedes that his arrangement does not break all the problems, but says it is a start. “The blemish actuality is real. It begins the action of mitigating issues of accident administration and finance,” he says.