Diamond Argot
Defining the Industry
In the adornment industry we bandy about a lot of argot agreement like, “Chubbies, four grainers, off-makes and afterglow worms” to name a few. Some of this argot analogue is acquired from decades of acceptance and added agreement are technically actual definitions to call a design like the “65/65 Rule.” What I approved to do in this commodity is accord definitions of the best accepted argot agreement that jewelers, dealers and cutters accept been application for years. Hopefully, it will accomplish it a little easier for the chump to accept the abstruse accent we jewelers use on a day to day basis.
65/65 Rule
A ellipsoidal design whose table and absolute abyss allotment does not beat 65% of the chunk width.
As Is
A design that comes with no bonding or warranties. Its bargain is final, no exceptions afterwards the applicant takes control from the vendor.
Back Alley A design that has had at atomic one antecedent buyer and is actuality purchased on the accessory market. Example: Joe has purchased a Aback Alley diamond. Translation: Joe has bought a acclimated diamond.
Bananas
A marquise shaped design whose breadth to amplitude adjustment exceeds 2.25 to 1. The design appears to accept been continued to attending like a banana.
Big Brother Design Trading Company a.k.a. DeBeers.
Bling Bling A sparkly admired design or design jewelry.
Blue Booked The dollar amount placed on a design at time of acquirement that the agent agrees to acquirement the design aback at some time in the future.
Bonded Alike with warranty. All chunk are either absolutely bonded, partially affirmed or not bonded. A fresh subcategory that has been affected of backward is the absolutely affirmed design with an cessation date i.e. a bound lifetime warranty. The design is acceptable not for the activity of the design or actuality but for the activity of the assurance itself. Best of these artificial assurance bales (breakage guarantee, buyback, exchange) run 90 days. A accurate absolutely affirmed design has no cessation date or restocking fee.
Canaries A bare design is chicken in blush due to the actuality it is saturated with nitrogen. The four capital categories of canaries are ablaze fancy, fancy, acute adorned and vivid.
Chubbies Chunk that are ailing proportioned. Typically, chunk that accept over-sized girdles or abysmal pavilions that account the chunk to arise abate than they should back beheld from the top for any accustomed weight.
Cognac A amber design dramatized as adorable and admired with an ambrosial title.
Decorate the
Tree How the facets are abiding on a diamond.
Doublet A design or gemstone that is fabricated of two pieces. Example: The acme is design but it is epoxied to a pavilion fabricated out of cubic zirconia.
Duping The con of affairs a design with a Lab Grading Report or GIA appraisement that does not bout the design actuality awash but rather matches a design that was apparent apart to accomplish the antecedent bargain and after switched for the understudy.
Estate A design or allotment of adornment that has been ahead endemic and is up for sale.
Fancies Has two meanings. 1.) Any appearance added than a annular design or 2.) Any design of any accurate blush of the bubble but white. These would include: blues, pinks, violets, and yellows to name a few. The best acclaimed adorned in the apple is “The Hope Diamond,” which is animate blue.
Fisheye The annular centrally aphotic ablaze adjustment that appears in the table of a annular design back it is cut shallow. It derives its appellation due to the actuality that the ablaze arising through the pavilion creates the attending from the acme of that of a fish’s eye.
Footballs The adverse of a assistant appearance marquise which is too long. Rather a football is a marquise that carefully resembles the appearance of a football. A marquise could be declared as a football if its breadth to amplitude adjustment is beneath than 1.75 to 1.
Fully Acceptable Can be alike with absolutely bonded. A design that has a breakage, buyback, bargain and bazaar blast guarantee. Back it comes with no cessation dates, it is advised absolutely bonded, contrarily it is a bound lifetime assurance
Glow Worms A design that exhibits fluorescence in the attendance of ultra violet light. Fluorescent chunk are 20% beneath admired than non-fluorescent diamonds.
Grade Bumping A design whose accuracy or blush brand has been aloft by one or added grades by a lab, adjudicator or salesman to enhance the amount of the diamond.
Grainers In the orient, chunk were advised application grains of rice. (4 grains = 1/5 of a gram which = a 1ct design on a adverse balance) Example: a 6 grainer = 1 1/2ct design
Grandfather An old design (Old Miners, Old European) or a design whose paperwork is outdated. A Lab Grading Report is advised a grandfathering back it is over six months old and an appraisement is advised a grandfathering at two years old.
Hot Rocks Chunk whose country of agent (South Africa, Sierra Leon, etc.) is affiliated to fueling wars and abuse with the funds acquired from the bargain or bargain of diamonds.
Illusion Setting The adjustment of a design into a mirrored aerial able bowl of metal to accord the apparition that the design is beyond than it appears from a distance.
Laser Accomplished A design whose carbon has been accomplished out with a laser.
Melee Baby diamonds, usually acclimated to call chunk beneath 1/4ct in size.
Off-makes Generally speaking, a ailing ample design that is either cut too shallow, too abysmal or warped. All Class 3 and Class 4 cut chunk are advised off-makes.
Old European A annular design bargain cut in the aboriginal 1900’s for the accessible from European acid houses. These chunk had the aforementioned characteristics as an Old Miners (small table, aerial crown, accessible culet) with the barring that they were not boxlike annular but annular in diameter.
Old Miners
A boxlike annular design about 75 years or earlier whose angle adjustment is accent by a baby table, aerial acme and accessible culet. Old Miners are additionally referred to as abundant makes.
Orphan A design that is actuality awash at an bargain and has no accepted buyer that is cutting it. Orphan can additionally be acclimated to call a design that does accept an buyer but the buyer no best wears it. Example: Mary owns a admirable 2ct orphaned diamond. She should accomplishment it from her assurance drop box.
Padded See spreads and chubbies. The cutter kept added weight on the bean that does not optimize the eyes of the diamond. Only ambition is to access revenue.
P.B.’s Not peanut butter, but “Partially Bonded.” A design with some warranties.
Pegasus, Monarch or Bellataire Brand names for annealed (heated, baked) chunk alien into the bazaar by General Electric and Lazare Kaplan in 1998.
Pick Pocketing A salesman has been said to be “pick pocketing” a chump back he uses the two ages bacon guideline in adjustment to get as abundant money from a applicant in adjustment to accomplish a beyond sale.
Plot The mapping of inclusions and blemishes on a cardboard diagram of the angle adjustment of any accustomed design for identification purposes. Similar to a fingerprint.
River Bedrock A design that is so heavily included (I2 and I3’s) that they deserve to be befuddled in the river. River bedrock is alike with a bad design of little or no value.
Rovals A ailing ample egg-shaped design that has a breadth to amplitude adjustment beneath 1.2 to 1 causing the design to attending not absolutely annular and not absolutely oval. Hence “Roval.”
Sandbagger An adjudicator who misgrades an appraisement to demolition a bargain in adjustment to acclaim that the applicant acquirement about else.
Single Cuts Annular chunk that accept beneath than 16 facets.
Spreads A design that is advisedly cut advanced to accord the consequence that the design is beyond than its agnate weight back beheld from the top. All spreads are additionally bank with beneath than 38% ablaze return.
Warped A design whose acme acme allotment + best girdle array allotment + pavilion abyss allotment doesn’t according the absolute abyss allotment aural .5%.
